The most important rule- "Learn to live a life of "Aloha!"
In the US and other busy countries, it's so easy to get caught up in living at a fast pace, leaving little time for friends and family. When I moved to Hawaii, I had heard of the term "Aloha" but did not understand how significant it was to living life. Then I heard a lifeguard say, "Try and learn how to live Aloha." It sent me on a path of self-discovery and finding out how Hawaiians came to their unique way of life.
Aloha is a word that expresses the essence of Hawaiian culture and spirituality. It is more than just a greeting or a farewell; it is a way of living and relating to others with love, compassion, peace, and harmony. Aloha is also a way of connecting with the ocean, which is so essential for surfers!
The term aloha derives from Proto-Polynesian and dates back to the early 1800s. When broken down, the phrase's literal translation translates to [Alo], meaning 'presence,' and [Hā], meaning 'breath.'
Together the word aloha translates to 'The presence of breath' or 'breath of life.'
The Hawaiians believed that sharing this breath with each other could create a bond of love and friendship. This practice was called "honi," which involved touching noses and inhaling each other's breath.
The word "aloha" also has a deeper meaning that reflects the Hawaiian worldview and values. Each letter of the word represents a principle or a virtue that guides the Hawaiians in their daily lives. These are: A: Akahai, meaning kindness, gentleness, and grace. L: Lokahi, meaning unity, harmony, and cooperation. O: Oluolu, meaning agreeableness, pleasantness, and satisfaction. H: Haahaa, meaning humility, modesty, and respect. A: Ahonui, meaning patience, perseverance, and endurance.
Surfing is a sport that can inspire aloha in many ways. Surfing can make you grateful for the ocean, your body, your board, your friends, and your environment. Surfing can also teach you valuable lessons like patience, humility, resilience, and respect. Surfing can help you connect with nature, yourself, and others. When you surf with aloha, you follow some basic rules of surfing etiquette, including sharing waves and helping others- both rare outside of Hawaii.
Today, we are the lucky recipients of the aloha, which was spread by Duke Kahanamoku. Duke was one of the most influential figures in this revival, born in 1890 in Honolulu. He was a descendant of Hawaiian royalty and a gifted athlete who excelled in swimming and surfing. Duke won several Olympic medals in swimming and popularized surfing worldwide by giving demonstrations and exhibitions in places like Australia, California, and New Zealand. He also became a symbol of Hawaiian pride and dignity, as well as an ambassador of aloha.
Another important figure in the history of surfing and aloha was Eddie Aikau, born in 1946 in Maui. Eddie was a legendary big wave surfer who rode some of the world's largest and most dangerous waves, such as Waimea Bay and Sunset Beach on Oahu's North Shore. He was also a lifeguard who saved hundreds of lives and never lost anyone on his watch. He was also a cultural activist who participated in the Hawaiian Renaissance movement of the 1970s, which aimed to restore Hawaiian language, culture, and sovereignty. He also joined the crew of the Hokule'a, a replica of an ancient Polynesian voyaging canoe that sailed from Hawaii to Tahiti using traditional navigation methods. Eddie tragically died in 1978 when he tried to paddle for help after the Hokule'a capsized in rough seas. His courage and sacrifice inspired generations of surfers and Hawaiians to live with aloha. Now, for his attempt to help save the Hokule'a's crew, the surfing world honors him with a big wave contest and the phrase, "Eddie would go!"
Today, surfing is a global phenomenon that attracts millions of people from different backgrounds, cultures, and countries. Surfing is also a diverse and dynamic sport that has evolved into various forms and styles, such as shortboarding, longboarding, bodyboarding, stand-up paddle boarding, tow-in surfing, kite surfing, windsurfing, etc. Surfing is also a creative and artistic sport that allows surfers to express themselves through their movements, maneuvers, tricks, and designs.
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