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Fifty Things I Wish I Knew BEFORE I Started Surfing! #30- Learning To Observe

Learning To Observe And Learn- Checking The Waves Before Going Out.

As you begin to learn how to surf, one of the best ways to prepare yourself is to observe the waves before you dive in. Eventually, as an Intermediate or Expert surfer, you will know how important it is to watch the waves and plan your strategy. You can spot the best places to catch the waves, avoid the rip currents, and follow the locals. You can adjust your plan as you see how the waves change over time. Observation is a critical skill that will help you improve your surfing and enjoy it more.


As a new surfer, you can also observe the waves before surfing. Here are some tips on what to look for and how to find your ideal spot. First, look for the sandbars near the shore. These are areas where the water is shallow and has a sandy color or lighter blue/green. You want to surf here because you can catch the whitewash in waist-deep water. Whitewash is the foam that forms after a wave breaks, and it is easier to ride than a green wave when you're first starting out. Second, look for the deep areas near the shore. The water is darker in these areas, and the waves don't break as much. This is where you want to avoid because of the rip currents. Rip currents are strong flows of water that can pull you away from the shore and make it hard to paddle back. Third, look for the least crowded spot to walk out. You want to respect the other surfers and give them enough space to surf safely. You also want to be close to the lifeguard towers, so they can help you if you need it.


Try to observe a surf break from a pier or cliff if possible. They give you a great view of the whole area and help you learn more about it. You can see how the waves break, how the currents flow, and how the surfers move. You can also get inspired by watching other surfers and learn from their techniques.


Observing the waves is not only practical but also fun and relaxing. You can enjoy the beauty of nature and feel the excitement of surfing.






















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