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Fifty Things I Wish I Knew BEFORE I Started Surfing! #16- Rip Currents

A rip current is a type of water current that can occur near beaches where waves break. It is a strong, narrow, and fast-moving stream of water that flows away from the shore, cutting through the lines of breaking waves. It can carry floating objects and people out to the open ocean, sometimes at speeds of up to 8 feet per second. A rip current is not the same as an undertow, which is a downward pull of water that can drag you under the surface. A rip current only moves you horizontally, not vertically.

Rip currents form when wind and waves push water towards the shore, causing a slight rise in the water level. This excess water tries to flow back to the ocean through the path of least resistance, such as a gap in a sandbar or a reef. This creates a channel of water that flows faster than the surrounding water, forming the rip current. The rip current usually ends beyond the breaking waves, where it disperses and loses its power.


Rip currents can be very dangerous for swimmers and surfers who are not aware of them or who do not know how to escape them. They can cause panic, exhaustion, drowning, or even death. According to the National Ocean Service, rip currents are the leading cause of rescues by lifeguards at beaches in the U.S., and they are estimated to kill 100 people every year. Therefore, it is important to learn how to identify, avoid, and escape rip currents before you go surfing or swimming in the ocean.


In the next few posts I will cover how to identify rip currents and what I would do if I got caught in one.






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